Specs vs real Pecs...
Specs and real Pecs...
I thought it was worth posting something on specs here:
When I see a debate over which amps delivers 10w more per channel it is amusing and yet at the same time ridiculous, since they don't come anywhere close to what is stipulated, especially for the lower end models.
So I would be very sanguine and take a whole bunch of salt when looking at specs. Often for AVRs and esp in lower end models, they are grossly inflated. Even for higher end ones, when you drive all channels, some models deliberately throttle the current to prevent their amp sections from a meltdown.
However when driving 8 ohm designs in a typical apartment living room, most amps will be ok. But if you start upgrading, and start using better albeit harder to drive speakers, then the game is more complicated.
Few AVRs can drive 4 ohm designs. Krell, Sunfire etc and a few top end models from the Japs.
For the rest of us who use amps in the 1-2k region, essentially forget the specs and if you need the dynamic headroom, get a power amp.
Note: if you are after real increase in LOUDNESS, getting a more sensitive speaker works a lot easier than trying to double the power.
So take those specifications on amplifier power section outputs with plenty of salt - caveat emptor.
I have no financial interest or other interests in any of the items / events I write about.
I thought it was worth posting something on specs here:
When I see a debate over which amps delivers 10w more per channel it is amusing and yet at the same time ridiculous, since they don't come anywhere close to what is stipulated, especially for the lower end models.
So I would be very sanguine and take a whole bunch of salt when looking at specs. Often for AVRs and esp in lower end models, they are grossly inflated. Even for higher end ones, when you drive all channels, some models deliberately throttle the current to prevent their amp sections from a meltdown.
However when driving 8 ohm designs in a typical apartment living room, most amps will be ok. But if you start upgrading, and start using better albeit harder to drive speakers, then the game is more complicated.
Few AVRs can drive 4 ohm designs. Krell, Sunfire etc and a few top end models from the Japs.
For the rest of us who use amps in the 1-2k region, essentially forget the specs and if you need the dynamic headroom, get a power amp.
Note: if you are after real increase in LOUDNESS, getting a more sensitive speaker works a lot easier than trying to double the power.
So take those specifications on amplifier power section outputs with plenty of salt - caveat emptor.
I have no financial interest or other interests in any of the items / events I write about.
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